Wood Stove Changeout Clears the Air in LIbby, Montana

Contact: Deidra Darsa
(703) 522-0086 ET
darsa@hpba.org

Wood Stove Changeout Clears the Air in Libby, Montana
U.S. EPA Declares Libby Area Air Quality Meets Fine Particle Standard

Arlington, VA (October 13, 2009) - The Hearth, Patio & Barbecue Association (HPBA) is excited to announce the final success of the Libby, Montana, wood stove changeout program. This effort led by HPBA, the U.S. EPA and Montana state and local officials replaced 1130 outdated wood-burning appliances with new cleaner burning EPA-certified wood stoves donated and installed by HPBA member companies.

Prior to the changeout, the Lincoln County town of Libby was predicted to fall short of meeting the new 24-hour fine particulate matter (PM2.5) federal standard according to state-validated air quality monitoring data for the three years, 2005 through 2007. However, data for the most recent three years - 2006, 2007 and 2008 - proved the area was meeting the standard. It is now an official attainment area.

"These results show that new technology wood-burning stoves, fireplace inserts and pellet stoves have a positive affect on the environment - both outdoors and in," said Jack Goldman, president of HPBA. "Not only do they burn cleaner than old-model stoves, they burn far more efficiently and use one-third less wood to heat the same space than previous stoves. This is great news for the people in Libby. They can now continue to warm their homes safely with wood, their main fuel source for home heating."

According to U.S. EPA, PM2.5 is a by-product of fuel combustion from wood burning, gasoline automobiles, diesel-powered vehicles such as trucks and busses, power plants and industrial processes and has been associated with a variety of serious health problems including heart attacks, chronic bronchitis and asthma. By removing old technology wood-burning stoves and replacing them with new clean-burning stoves, residents of Libby, MT, are breathing easier.



Consumers interested in clean-burning wood- or pellet-burning appliances can now receive a federal tax credit for up to $1,500 on the purchase and installation of a 75% efficient appliance. For information on clean-burning wood stoves and the federal 30%/$1500 consumer tax credit for wood and pellet burning stoves, go to www.hpba.org/taxcredit.

For more information on wood stove changeouts and Libby, Montana, go to www.woodstovechangeout.org.

About Hearth, Patio & Barbecue Association (HPBA)
The Hearth, Patio & Barbecue Association is an international trade association first established in 1980 to represent and promote the interests of the hearth products industry in North America. In 2002, the Hearth Products Association (HPA) merged with the Barbecue Industry Association (BIA) to form HPBA. The association includes manufacturers, retailers, distributors, manufacturers' representatives, service and installation firms, and other companies and individuals - all having business interests in and related to the hearth, patio, and barbecue products industries. For more information, please visit www.hpba.org or www.woodstovechangeout.org.

When to change oil on your furnace.

When is the last time you changed the oil on your furnace? Ok, I got you thinking now. You are right, you don't change oil on a residential gas home heating furnace. But I bet you change oil on your car every 3,000-6,000 miles. It seams that everyone knows you need to change the oil on your car but we forget about the furnace that heats our home.

If you didn't change oil on your car it will still keep working for a long time. You may be able to drive 30, 40, maybe 60,000 miles without changing your oil. But the efficiency will go down, you will waste fuel, and the motor will definitly fail earlier than it should. Same goes for your furnace. If you never have a profesional HVAC company clean and inspect your furnace you will waste money on your heating bills and it will also fail early. Could you imagine living in Minnesota and going on vacation for a week in January when the average temperature is about 15 degrees and night can be -15 to -30 degrees and your furnace fails. Well it happens every day. If you lose heat in your home and you are away you could freeze the water pipes and flood your home.

Is freezing pipes worst case senoiro? Or is having a gas leak, carbon monoxide poisioning, or cold house with a 6 month old baby. All of these are bad and happen very commonly. But the most common problem by not having your furnace profesionally tuned up is wasting money every month on your gas bill and having to buy a new furnace 5-7 years earlier than needed.

Lets play some numbers. Pretend running an unefficient furnace waste $15/month. 6 month heating season equals $90/year. Next if a new furance install cost $3,500 and should last 20 years but now only last 12 years. That is like wasting another $116/year. So total waste is $206/year. That is $2,060 over 10 years. Well you can have a HVAC company do a quality inspection and cleaning for less money than $206/year typically.

So having a furnace tune up annually can save you money, drastically reduce chance of break down, save money on service, and provide a safer home for your family.

EnergyGuide Labels

The U.S. government established a mandatory compliance program in the 1970s requiring that certain types of new appliances bear a label to help consumers compare the energy efficiency among similar products. In 1980, the Federal Trade Commission's Appliance Labeling Rule became effective, and requires that EnergyGuide labels be placed on all new refrigerators, freezers, water heaters, dishwashers, clothes washers, room air conditioners, heat pumps, furnaces, and boilers. These labels are bright yellow with black lettering identifying energy consumption characteristics of household appliances. Although these labels will not tell you which appliance is the most efficient, they will tell you the annual energy consumption and operating cost for each appliance so you can compare them yourself.

EnergyGuide labels show the estimated yearly electricity consumption to operate the product along with a scale for comparison among similar products. The comparison scale shows the least and most energy used by comparable models. The labeled model is represented by an arrow pointing to its relative position on that scale. This allows consumers to compare the labeled model with other similar models. The consumption figure printed on EnergyGuide labels, in kilowatt-hours (kWh), is based on average usage assumptions and your actual energy consumption may vary depending on the appliance usage.

EnergyGuide labels are not required on kitchen ranges, microwave ovens, clothes dryers, on-demand water heaters, portable space heaters, and lights.

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Source: U. S. Department of Energy

What is NATE Certification

What is NATE Certification?

Why is it important?

What does it mean to me?

How do I know if a technician is NATE certified?

The Answer Guide

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People want their comfort systems fixed fast, fixed right, and fixed the first time. But how do you pre-judge the quality of service you will receive?

No matter how reputable the company is that you call for service, the quality of your experience is ultimately dependent upon the quality of the technician dispatched to your home. How do you know whether a company employs qualified technicians?

One way is NATE certification.

A Few Facts

NATE is the North American Technician Excellence™ program. Modeled after the ASE certification program in the automotive industry, NATE is the industry standard for technician certification.

NATE is the industry’s national certification program and is supported by the entire industry.

Broad national surveys indicate that consumers overwhelmingly desire certified technicians. In fact, seven out of eight homeowners want their equipment serviced by a nationally certified technician.

NATE certification is far from certain, even for experienced technician. Nationally, passing rates for NATE certification exams are about the same as passing rates for the “bar” to earn a license to practice law.

Why is NATE Certification important?
Heating and air conditioning equipment gets more sophisticated with each passing year. Many of today’s comfort products include computer control boards and high tech sensor systems. Installing and servicing equipment requires more in-depth knowledge and training than ever before. NATE certification was designed to reflect a consensus of the knowledge industry experts determined technicians needed to be able to install and service equipment properly.

Should I allow a technician without NATE Certification to work on my comfort system?
NATE certification is voluntary and many excellent technicians have yet to sit for the NATE exams. In other words, there are good technicians who are not NATE certified. However, the odds of finding a good, qualified, competent technician increases when you insist on NATE certification. NATE certification means the technician is well-grounded in the knowledge he or she needs. NATE certification also reflects a commitment by the technician to the heating and air conditioning industry as a profession. NATE certified technicians are serious about their craft and self-motivated to perform well.

How do I know if a technician is NATE Certified?
For starters, ask for a NATE certified technician when you call for service. Beyond requesting one, identifying a NATE certified technician is often as simple as looking for the NATE patch on the sleeve of their uniform. If you unsure, ask the technician if he or she is NATE certified. NATE also maintains a database of contractors employing NATE certified technicians at www.natex.org.

© 2003 Service Roundtable

"A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture, and Your Home"

Contents

Mold Basics

• Why is mold growing in my home?
• Can mold cause health problems?
• How do I get rid of mold?

Mold Cleanup

• Who should do the cleanup?

Mold Cleanup Guidelines

What to Wear When Cleaning Moldy Areas

• How Do I Know When the Remediation or Cleanup is Finished?

Moisture and Mold Prevention and Control Tips

• Actions that will help to reduce humidity
• Actions that will help prevent condensation
• Testing or sampling for mold

Hidden Mold

• Cleanup and Biocides

Additional Resources

Mold Basics

• The key to mold control is moisture control.
• If mold is a problem in your home, you should clean up the mold promptly and fix the water problem.
• It is important to dry water-damaged areas and items within 24-48 hours to prevent mold growth.

Why is mold growing in my home?

Molds are part of the natural environment. Outdoors, molds play a part in nature by breaking down dead organic matter such as fallen leaves and dead trees, but indoors, mold growth should be avoided. Molds reproduce by means of tiny spores; the spores are invisible to the naked eye and float through outdoor and indoor air. Mold may begin growing indoors when mold spores land on surfaces that are wet. There are many types of mold, and none of them will grow without water or moisture.

Can mold cause health problems?

Molds are usually not a problem indoors, unless mold spores land on a wet or damp spot and begin growing. Molds have the potential to cause health problems. Molds produce allergens (substances that can cause allergic reactions), irritants, and in some cases, potentially toxic substances (mycotoxins). Inhaling or touching mold or mold spores may cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. Allergic responses include hay fever-type symptoms, such as sneezing, runny nose, red eyes, and skin rash (dermatitis). Allergic reactions to mold are common. They can be immediate or delayed. Molds can also cause asthma attacks in people with asthma who are allergic to mold. In addition, mold exposure can irritate the eyes, skin, nose, throat, and lungs of both mold-allergic and non-allergic people. Symptoms other than the allergic and irritant types are not commonly reported as a result of inhaling mold. Research on mold and health effects is ongoing. This brochure provides a brief overview; it does not describe all potential health effects related to mold exposure. For more detailed information consult a health professional. You may also wish to consult your state or local health department.

How do I get rid of mold?

It is impossible to get rid of all mold and mold spores indoors; some mold spores will be found floating through the air and in house dust. The mold spores will not grow if moisture is not present. Indoor mold growth can and should be prevented or controlled by controlling moisture indoors. If there is mold growth in your home, you must clean up the mold and fix the water problem. If you clean up the mold, but don't fix the water problem, then, most likely, the mold problem will come back.

Mold Cleanup

Who should do the cleanup?

Who should do the cleanup depends on a number of factors. One consideration is the size of the mold problem. If the moldy area is less than about 10 square feet (less than roughly a 3 ft. by 3 ft. patch), in most cases, you can handle the job yourself, following the guidelines below. However:

• If there has been a lot of water damage, and/or mold growth covers more than 10 square feet, consult the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) guide: Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings. Although focused on schools and commercial buildings, this document is applicable to other building types. It is available free by calling the EPA Indoor Air Quality Information Clearinghouse at (800) 438-4318, or on the Internet at epa.gov/iaq/molds/mold_remediation.html.
• If you choose to hire a contractor (or other professional service provider) to do the cleanup, make sure the contractor has experience cleaning up mold. Check references and ask the contractor to follow the recommendations in EPA's Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings, the guidelines of the American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygenists (ACGIH), or other guidelines from professional or government organizations.
• If you suspect that the heating/ventilation/air conditioning (HVAC) system may be contaminated with mold (it is part of an identified moisture problem, for instance, or there is mold near the intake to the system), consult EPA's guide Should You Have the Air Ducts in Your Home Cleaned? before taking further action. Do not run the HVAC system if you know or suspect that it is contaminated with mold - it could spread mold throughout the building. Visit epa.gov/iaq/pubs/airduct.html, or call (800) 438-4318 for a free copy.
• If the water and/or mold damage was caused by sewage or other contaminated water, then call in a professional who has experience cleaning and fixing buildings damaged by contaminated water.
• If you have health concerns, consult a health professional before starting cleanup.

Mold Cleanup Guidelines

Tips and techniques

The tips and techniques presented in this section will help you clean up your mold problem. Professional cleaners or remediators may use methods not covered in this publication. Please note that mold may cause staining and cosmetic damage. It may not be possible to clean an item so that its original appearance is restored.

• Fix plumbing leaks and other water problems as soon as possible. Dry all items completely.
• Scrub mold off hard surfaces with detergent and water, and dry completely.
• Absorbent or porous materials, such as ceiling tiles and carpet, may have to be thrown away if they become moldy. Mold can grow on or fill in the empty spaces and crevices of porous materials, so the mold may be difficult or impossible to remove completely.
• Avoid exposing yourself or others to mold (see discussions: What to Wear When Cleaning Moldy Areas and Hidden Mold).
• Do not paint or caulk moldy surfaces. Clean up the mold and dry the surfaces before painting. Paint applied over moldy surfaces is likely to peel.
• If you are unsure about how to clean an item, or if the item is expensive or of sentimental value, you may wish to consult a specialist. Specialists in furniture repair, restoration, painting, art restoration and conservation, carpet and rug cleaning, water damage, and fire or water restoration are commonly listed in phone books.

  

  Be sure to ask for and check references. Look for specialists who are affiliated with professional organizations.

What to Wear when Cleaning Moldy Areas

• Avoid breathing in mold or mold spores. In order to limit your exposure to airborne mold, you may want to wear an N-95 respirator, available at many hardware stores and from companies that advertise on the Internet. (They cost about $12 to $25.) Some N-95 respirators resemble a paper dust mask with a nozzle on the front, others are made primarily of plastic or rubber and have removable cartridges that trap most of the mold spores from entering. In order to be effective, the respirator or mask must fit properly, so carefully follow the instructions supplied with the respirator. Please note that the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) requires that respirators fit properly (fit testing) when used in an occupational setting; consult OSHA for more information (800-321-OSHA or osha.gov/ ).
• Wear gloves. Long gloves that extend to the middle of the forearm are recommended. When working with water and a mild detergent, ordinary household rubber gloves may be used. If you are using a disinfectant, a biocide such as chlorine bleach, or a strong cleaning solution, you should select gloves made from natural rubber, neoprene, nitrile, polyurethane, or PVC (see Cleanup and Biocides). Avoid touching mold or moldy items with your bare hands.
• Wear goggles. Goggles that do not have ventilation holes are recommended. Avoid getting mold or mold spores in your eyes.

How Do I Know When the Remediation or Cleanup is Finished?

You must have completely fixed the water or moisture problem before the cleanup or remediation can be considered finished.

• You should have completed mold removal. Visible mold and moldy odors should not be present. Please note that mold may cause staining and cosmetic damage
• You should have revisited the site(s) shortly after cleanup and it should show no signs of water damage or mold growth.
• People should have been able to occupy or re-occupy the area without health complaints or physical symptoms.
• Ultimately, this is a judgment call; there is no easy answer. If you have concerns or questions call the EPA Indoor Air Quality Information Clearinghouse at (800) 438-4318.

Moisture & Mold Prevention and Control Tips

• Moisture control is the key to mold control, so when water leaks or spills occur indoors - ACT QUICKLY. If wet or damp materials or areas are dried 24-48 hours after a leak or spill happens, in most cases mold will not grow.
• Clean and repair roof gutters regularly.
• Make sure the ground slopes away from the building foundation, so that water does not enter or collect around the foundation.
• Keep air conditioning drip pans clean and the drain lines unobstructed and flowing properly.
• Keep indoor humidity low. If possible, keep indoor humidity below 60 percent (ideally between 30 and 50 percent) relative humidity. Relative humidity can be measured with a moisture or humidity meter, a small, inexpensive ($10-$50) instrument available at many hardware stores.
• If you see condensation or moisture collecting on windows, walls or pipes ACT QUICKLY to dry the wet surface and reduce the moisture/water source. Condensation can be a sign of high humidity.

Actions that will help to reduce humidity:

• Vent appliances that produce moisture, such as clothes dryers, stoves, and kerosene heaters to the outside where possible. (Combustion appliances such as stoves and kerosene heaters produce water vapor and will increase the humidity unless vented to the outside.)
• Use air conditioners and/or de-humidifiers when needed.

Run the bathroom fan or open the window when showering. Use exhaust fans or open windows whenever cooking, running the dishwasher or dishwashing, etc.

Actions that will help prevent condensation:

• Reduce the humidity (see above).
• Increase ventilation or air movement by opening doors and/or windows, when practical. Use fans as needed.
• Cover cold surfaces, such as cold water pipes, with insulation.
• Increase air temperature.

Testing or Sampling for Mold

Is sampling for mold needed? In most cases, if visible mold growth is present, sampling is unnecessary. Since no EPA or other federal limits have been set for mold or mold spores, sampling cannot be used to check a building's compliance with federal mold standards. Surface sampling may be useful to determine if an area has been adequately cleaned or remediated. Sampling for mold should be conducted by professionals who have specific experience in designing mold sampling protocols, sampling methods, and interpreting results. Sample analysis should follow analytical methods recommended by the American Industrial Hygiene Association (AIHA), the American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygienists (ACGIH), or other professional organizations.

Hidden Mold

Suspicion of Hidden Mold

You may suspect hidden mold if a building smells moldy, but you cannot see the source, or if you know there has been water damage and residents are reporting health problems. Mold may be hidden in places such as the back side of dry wall, wallpaper, or paneling, the top side of ceiling tiles, the underside of carpets and pads, etc. Other possible locations of hidden mold include areas inside walls around pipes (with leaking or condensing pipes), the surface of walls behind furniture (where condensation forms), inside ductwork, and in roof materials above ceiling tiles (due to roof leaks or insufficient insulation).

Investigating hidden mold problems

Investigating hidden mold problems may be difficult and will require caution when the investigation involves disturbing potential sites of mold growth. For example, removal of wallpaper can lead to a massive release of spores if there is mold growing on the underside of the paper. If you believe that you may have a hidden mold problem, consider hiring an experienced professional.

Cleanup and Biocides

Biocides are substances that can destroy living organisms. The use of a chemical or biocide that kills organisms such as mold (chlorine bleach, for example) is not recommended as a routine practice during mold cleanup. There may be instances, however, when professional judgment may indicate its use (for example, when immune-compromised individuals are present). In most cases, it is not possible or desirable to sterilize an area; a background level of mold spores will remain - these spores will not grow if the moisture problem has been resolved. If you choose to use disinfectants or biocides, always ventilate the area and exhaust the air to the outdoors. Never mix chlorine bleach solution with other cleaning solutions or detergents that contain ammonia because toxic fumes could be produced.

Please note: Dead mold may still cause allergic reactions in some people, so it is not enough to simply kill the mold, it must also be removed.

Additional Resources

For more information on mold related issues including mold cleanup and moisture control/condensation/humidity issues, you can call the EPA Indoor Air Quality Information Clearinghouse at (800) 438-4318.

• EPA's Mold Resources page (http://www.epa.gov/iaq/molds/moldresources.html)
• The EPA publication, Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings (EPA 402-K-01-001, March 2001), is available.
• Other Indoor Air Quality Publications - www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs
• PDF Formatted Version

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Dryer Fire Fact Sheet Statistics and Implications Dryer exhaust fires now surpass creosote (chimney) fires in frequency on a national level. In 1998, the most recent statistics available, the Consumer Product Safety Commission reports that over 15,600 dryer fires occurred killing 20 people, injuring 370 more and causing over $75.4 million in property damage. According to the CPSC, in most of these cases the culprit was lint getting into the machine’s heating element, sparking and fueling a fire. In response to this growing trend, many dryer manufacturers now employ a device that shuts the appliance down when airflow is obstructed. However, these safeguards are subject to wear and have been known to fail. Not surprisingly, some fire departments and insurance companies now require that dryer vents be inspected and cleaned regularly. With gas dryers, there is also concern of carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning. Since lint and flue gases use the same avenue of exit from the house, a blocked vent can cause CO fumes to back up into the house. These fumes are colorless and odorless and they can be fatal. Low-level CO poisoning mimics flu symptoms (without the fever): headache, weakness, nausea, disorientation and deep fatigue. At higher levels, occupants can fall asleep, lapse into a coma and die. Anatomy of a Dryer Fire Dryer fires usually start beneath the dryer when the motor overheats. Overheating is caused by a build-up of lint in the duct that increases the drying time and blocks the flow of air, just like cholesterol in your arteries can build up and block the flow of blood to your heart. Naturally, any lint that has collected under the dryer will burn and the draft from the dryer will pull that fire up into the duct. Since the duct is coated or even blocked with lint, many times a house fire results. Other contributing conditions may include failure of the thermostat and limit switches in the dryer, lint inside the dryer, a missing or damaged lint screen, a crushed hose behind the dryer, or a bird’s nest or other debris blocking the vent. Higher Risk Situations Residential dryer vent lengths may not have an equivalent length greater than 25 feet. Five additional feet for each 90-degree bend must be added to the actual physical length to compute the vent’s equivalent length. This will determine the vent’s actual resistance to the airflow. Homes with larger families or where dryers are used heavily are at greater risk. Flexible plastic duct is no longer code-approved for clothes dryers. It is normally one of the first things burning lint will ignite, having been shown to flame in as little as 12 seconds. Lower cost and high flexibility often make it attractive to unadvised homeowners installing their own machines. Flexible duct made of thin foil is not recommended for clothes dryers. It’s tendency to "kink" and stop airflow makes it dangerous to use. Warning Signs Dryer is still producing heat, but taking longer and longer to dry clothes, especially towels and jeans. Clothes are damp or hotter than usual at the end of the cycle. Outdoor flapper on vent hood doesn't open when dryer is on. Additional Benefits to Dryer Vent Cleaning Allows your dryer to operate more efficiently, using less energy and saving you money. Protects your dryer from excess wear and premature death. Helps clothes dry faster—a time savings for busy families. Reduces excess household dust and humidity Helps preserve clothing, as the life of many fabrics is damaged by excessive high heat. Inspection Frequency Most vents need cleaning every two to three years. Some dryer vents need attention more often. If it is the first time that a dryer vent has been cleaned, having it re-checked again in a year can help to make a reasonable judgment. Determining factors include: How heavily the dryer is used How long the vent is and the materials used. Shorter vents usually blow better. The age and type of dryer used. Full size dryers blow better than smaller stack dryers or older dryers The design of the vent. Those with a lot of turns and elbows blow worse and build up more lint. Overheated Clothes Dryers Can Cause Fires Consumer Product Safety Alert The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission estimates that there are an estimated annual 15,500 fires, 10 deaths, and 310 injuries associated with clothes dryers. Some of these fires may occur when lint builds up in the filter or in the exhaust duct. Under certain conditions, when lint blocks the flow of air, excessive heat build-up may cause a fire in some dryers. To prevent fires: Clean the lint filter regularly and make sure the dryer is operating properly. Clean the filter after each load of clothes. While the dryer is operating, check the outside exhaust to make sure exhaust air is escaping normally, If it is not, look inside both ends of the duct and remove any lint. If there are signs that the dryer is hotter than normal, this may be a sign that the dryer's temperature control thermostat needs servicing. Check the exhaust duct more often if you have a plastic, flexible duct. This type of duct is more apt to trap lint than ducting without ridges. Closely follow manufacturers' instructions for new installations. Most manufacturers that get their clothes dryers approved by Underwriters Laboratories specify the use of metal exhaust duct. If metal duct is not available at the retailer where the dryer was purchased, check other locations, such as hardware or builder supply stores. If you are having the dryer installed, insist upon metal duct unless the installer has verified that the manufacturer permits the use of plastic duct.

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U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission

Keeping Minnesota State Fair Cold...

Oh no... Summer's almost over? Not yet, the Minnesota State Fair is typically a hot and busy week. Comfort Matters Heating and Cooling, Inc was able to help keep one of the food stands cold.

Midway Food Company from Winchester, Texas area has a food stand called the Midway Grill and it gets pretty hot working over a grill at the fair. Well only a couple weeks away their air conditioning stopped working on their custom built portable 18,000 pound kitchen. The trailer was out in Montana at a fair when Comfort Matters got the call that they were heading to Minnesota for the fair and needed to get the cooling fixed. Comfort Matters found a Trane rooftop air conditioner in Laramie Wyoming that would work. So within days before the fair the trailer was delivered to Comfort Matters office in Hanover, MN.

"This became a very interesting and custom installation" said Corey Hickmann (owner of Comfort Matters Heating and Cooling, Inc.) We brought in Crystal Welding to help custom build the aluminum frame and ducting so we could mount the new Trane unit on the Roof. Even though it decided to rain most of the day slowing down the work, the new cooling system was up and running the next day and ready for delivery to the fair. The Minnesota State Fair is the largest fair in the country for daily attendance and it is very important to the Midway Grill to have a successful event.

So if you are out at the fair try a burger and fries at the Midway Grill, and if you miss it there it will be heading to Utah, Texas, and a few other stops before the year is over.